Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC won the Chronometry Prize at GPHG 2023, which, in my opinion, is completely justified. Even without delving into technical details, this timepiece exudes top-tier chronometry. The design itself speaks volumes about precision timekeeping just by glancing at the watch. But let’s explore in detail what makes this watch so special, including live photos and pricing.
While the FB 1 and FB 2 collections pay homage to Ferdinand Berthoud’s marine chronometers, the FB 3 collection draws inspiration from Pierre-Louis Berthoud (1754-1813), the Master’s nephew and successor known as “Louis Berthoud.” Its round case echoes the design of early 19th-century pocket watches. A single line hugs the curves of the domed crystal and the slender polished bezel of the FB 3 models, while harmoniously extending along the strap and the lugs screwed to the case.
Powered by a mechanical movement featuring a novel construction and a cylindrical balance-spring, the Chronomètre FB 3SPC approaches precision from a fresh perspective. It took several years to perfect the adjustments of the regulating organ before obtaining official “chronometer” certification (ISO 3159 standard): a first for such a movement.
The only cylindrical balance-spring chronometer-certified by the COSC
The mechanical movement of the Chronomètre FB 3SPC is based on a cylindrical balance-spring, a rare watchmaking speciality on which Ferdinand Berthoud himself worked. His nephew, Louis Berthoud, favoured its use in his famous No. 26 decimal watch. The Calibre FB-SPC is the only one of its kind to satisfy the chronometric (precision timekeeping) criteria of the COSC: ISO 3159 certification made possible only by the precision adjustments performed by the Manufacture’s watchmakers. Many months of research, testing and fine-tuning were necessary to define the number of coils and the geometry of the terminal curve at the attachment points to optimise rate precision.
Appearing at 9 o’clock, the three main escapement organs – the balance-wheel, pallet-lever and escape-wheel – are thus individualised, distinct and prominent. This ample space dedicated to the regulating organ enables its operation to be admired in full, and the cylindrical balance-spring to be seen beating throughout the three-day power reserve, including through a large water-resistant porthole created in the case middle at 9 o’clock.
An architecture designed to highlight every detail
Another fundamental aspect of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud is its commitment to crafting movements characterized by a clear, visually striking and three-dimensional architecture. The mainplate is placed at the heart of Calibre FB-SPC and the components are assembled on either side of it.
The dial side features a tightly arranged series of six bridges, drawing inspiration from the designs of Louis Berthoud. On the reverse side, ten additional bridges form a closely juxtaposed mosaic, echoing the aesthetic established on the front.
The hours and minutes appear on a peripheral inner bezel ring, small seconds at 6 o’clock and the power reserve at 2 o’clock. The rest of the dial, deliberately left open, enables one to admire the aesthetics of the movement’s components, their arrangement, as well as the surface conditions alternating between chamfered and polished bevels and matt surfaces created by fine sandblasting.
More than 100 hours are required to decorate the 230 components of the movement in order to achieve the ultimate degree of perfection characterising the creations bearing the Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud signature.
The Chronomètre FB 3SPC.1 features an 18-carat white gold case, 2N pale yellow gold movement components and an eggshell-coloured dial in sandblasted silver-toned brass or an 18-carat rose gold case with an sandblasted nickel silver with black rhodium-treated dial. Ferdinand Berthoud belongs to Chopard, and as you might expect, they also use sustainable, ethical gold for case production.
Production of the Chronomètre FB 3SPC is naturally limited by the capacities of the Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud workshop in Fleurier to a maximum of 25 of these timepieces per year.
Good things come at a price. The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC costs 143,000 CHF.
For further information about Berthoud Chronomètre watches, visit www.ferdinandberthoud.ch
