One Vacheron Constantin watch that I haven’t shown here yet is this Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date with a minimalist design, introduced last year at Watches & Wonders 2023.
At Watches & Wonders 2023, the primary focus for Vacheron Constantin was the retrograde date complication. In addition to this timepiece, there were two others – the Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date, which I covered here, and the impressive Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface. Now, let’s explore this elegant watch in a platinum case with a salmon dial.
The Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date showcases a 42.5 mm-diameter 950 platinum case, complemented by a salmon-colored dial with a sunburst pattern reflecting the codes of the collection. The dial design is inspired by distinctive retrograde displays from the 1920s and 1930s.
Salmon dials for Vacheron are not a new phenomenon; it’s not a trend that the brand is just now embracing. Featured in Vacheron Constantin watches since the 1940s, salmon-coloured dials make an ideal match with cases in white metal: particularly steel, notably with the legendary chronograph Reference 4178; as well as platinum, with which it forms a rare combination sought after by collectors and devotees of rare models. The combination of platinum case and salmon-coloured dial was picked up in the 1990s, again in conjunction with complications, such as the classic chronograph Reference 47101 and the 1992 self-winding perpetual calendar chronograph Reference 49005. This alliance between platinum and salmon is thus part of the Maison’s heritage and since 2022 has been the sign of a new aesthetic that can be found across its various collections in limited annual production.
The Patrimony retrograde day-date is driven by in-house self-winding calibre 2460 R31R7/3 operating at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour. It is fitted with a 22K gold openworked oscillating weight with a design inspired by the Maltese cross emblem and has an approximately 40-hour power reserve. In the grand tradition of in-house calibres, the bridges are finished with hand-polished angles. Straight-graining, which consists of perfectly smoothing the component flanks, is also performed by hand, while the screws are meticulously polished. The mainplate is circular-grained on both sides, while the bridges are adorned on the back with the Côtes de Genève motif.
The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date has a limited annual production and is only available in Vacheron Constantin boutiques at a price of 67,000 EUR.
TECHNICAL DATA
| Brand | Vacheron Constantin |
| Model | Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date |
| Reference | 4000U/000P-H003 |
| Calibre | 2460 R31R7/3 Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin Mechanical, self-winding 25.6 mm (11¼’’’) diameter, 5.4 mm thick Approximately 40 hours of power reserve 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour) 276 components 27 jewels Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece |
| Indications | Hours, minutes, retrograde day of the week and date |
| Case | 950 platinum 42.5 mm diameter, 9.7 mm thick Transparent sapphire crystal caseback Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters) |
| Dial | Salmon-coloured with sunburst finishing Convex external zone with external minute-circle composed of fine diamond-polished 18K white gold pearls 18K white gold applied hour-markers and hour & minutes hands Blued steel date and day hands |
| Strap | Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather with calf inner shell, tone-to-tone stitching, square scales |
| Clasp | 950 platinum pin buckle Polished half Maltese cross-shaped |
| Price | 67,000 EUR. |
| Availability | Available exclusively from Vacheron Constantin boutiques |
More details about Vacheron Constantin you can find on www.vacheron-constantin.com
