At Watches and Wonders 2024, there were a lot of very expensive watches, gold watches, watches with complications. However, one category that had also quite big presence this year was simple classical watches spanning various styles and price ranges. In this article, I’ve curated some of my favorite picks. Let’s explore them together.
Parmigiani Toric Pețite Seconde
An absolute hit at Watches & Wonders 2024, the new Parmigiani Toric Petite Seconde was the talk of the town.
With the introduction of the new Toric Petite Seconde, available in rose gold or platinum, Parmigiani Fleurier reaches new heights of masculine elegance. These masterpieces demonstrate exceptional craftsmanship, with every element crafted in gold, including the pinnacle of a new manufacture movement and the meticulously hand-finished grené and chevé dials. They are complemented by a new palette of hand-stitched nubuck alligator straps. The price of the gold version is €50,600, while the platinum one is €58,400.
Chopard
There are two standout pieces from Chopard this year in this category. First, the L.U.C XPS Forest Green, housed in a 40-mm Lucent Steel case and featuring a dark green sector-type dial. This piece combines vintage appeal with modern innovation.
Inside the L.U.C XPS Forest Green beats the ultra-thin in-house calibre L.U.C 96.12-L, featuring a bidirectional 22-carat gold micro-rotor and twin stacked barrels (Chopard Twin Technology), providing a generous 65-hour power reserve. Additionally, the movement is COSC certified. The price of this watch is €12,700, which, in my opinion, offers excellent value.
Another Chopard timepiece that deserves mention on this list is the more refined L.U.C Qualité Fleurier model.
While maintaining a 39 mm diameter and a mere 8.92 mm thickness, the L.U.C Qualité Fleurier timepiece sees its historical design revisited through a new model fitted with resized lugs and crown, as well as an elegant and functional silver-toned monochrome sector-type dial. It is the first in the L.U.C Qualité Fleurier family to be crafted in Lucent Steel: Chopard’s alloy featuring exclusive properties and made with a recycling rate of at least 80%. Showcasing the finest expertise and innovation cultivated within Chopard Manufacture, its L.U.C 96.09-L movement with chronometer-certified precision is equipped with Chopard Twin technology.
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual-Winding
Inspired by the minimalist watches of the 1950s, the Patrimony collection has been celebrating purity of style and the quest for essentials for 20 years. Two manual-winding models in white gold or pink gold feature a new 39 mm diameter, an antique silver-toned dial, a closed caseback providing scope for personalized engraving, and two new strap colors: azure blue or olive-green.
The price of the new Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual-Winding is €27,300 (including taxes).
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738
Not entirely a new watch, but a model that has been gaining more and more attention in recent years, the large-sized Golden Ellipse Reference 5738 welcomes its first metal bracelet this year. Composed of links set in fine rows reminiscent of chain bracelets, this supple, elegant chain-style bracelet in rose gold – with an engraved clasp pays a fine tribute to the 1970s, during which the Golden Ellipse watch played a starring role. The price is €59,100.
Frederique Constant Classic Date Manufacture
The Frederique Constant Classic Date Manufacture is the most complicated watch from my selection, but it was worth to add it here. This year the brand refined the Classic Date Manufacture and made it even better. The steel case has been slimmed-down to 40 millimetres, a classy and classic diameter housing a new dial free from figures. Slim hour markers and a ‘railtrack’ minute circle encompass a sunburst dial finished in silver, black or salmon. The watch also got the new FC-706 Manufacture calibre with a 72-hour power reserve and a five-year warranty. And all this package still with very attractive price tag of €3,295, what makes Frederique Constant one of the best in this price segment.
Nomos Tangente 38 Date
With 31 special models for every day of the month, 31 different personalities – each limited to 175 pieces, Nomos sparked a big debate at Watches and Wonders. For more details about this collection, read on here.
Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection Manual-winding Mechanical Hi-Beat 36000
This year, for the first time in more than 50 years, Grand Seiko announces a new hand-wound high-beat movement with a power reserve of 80 hours, the Caliber 9SA4. It is the third movement to join the latest generation of the mechanical Caliber 9S platform, which was born in 2020 with the automatic Caliber 9SA5 and then followed just last year with the Tentagraph Caliber 9SC5 chronograph.
This new watch comes in 38.6mm case made of Grand Seiko’s Brilliant Hard Titanium. The alloy is brighter than traditional titanium, causing the case’s Zaratsu-polished surfaces to appear even more radiant and achieving a sparkle of quality and beauty befitting a Grand Seiko dress watch. The price of the steel version is €11,700, while the rose gold one will cost you €49,500.
